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- Adjusting Torsion Bars:
Have you posted a photo of your bus and been told it's got a case of saggy butt? Before taking on the task of an adjustment consider other influences:
* The cab end sits up slightly until there is a driver in the front seat
* Because of the rear fender, the eye is often tricked into thinking there is sag. With someone in the front seat, measure the distance from the frame to the ground at both jackpoints on the same side.
* Gas shocks on the front expand by nature at rest and lift up the front
* The rear torsion bar bushings deforms and allow the spring arm to move (this also upsets the rear wheel camber - re-adjusting the camber only after replacing bushings)
Can you adjust the torsion bars in the rear to eliminate the sag you have in the suspension by turning the bar one notch? Yes. Should you? No.
The rear torsion bars have a vernier adjustment. Moving both splines in the same direction by one notch will result in too much adjustment. The vernier adjustment allow for less than 1 degree of adjustment so you have to follow the instructions in the Bentley.
Bus CV joint are quite sensitive. If you adjust the rear suspension incorrectly you may wear them out very quickly. Here is a list of maximum angles that the hub of the joint is allowed to move compared to other models:
* Bus, 18 degrees
* Typ 411, 22 degrees
* Porsche 930, 28 degrees
Vernier adjustment works this way: there are 44 splines on the inside and 48 on the outside (8 deg 10 min. on the inside splines and 7 deg. 30 min on the outside splines). If you want total accuracy this means having a tool to accurately measure the angle of the spring plate vs. the angle of the body that is better than a protractor. Then you can figure out exactly how many notches to turn on the first try. Turn the bar one notch clockwise and insert, then mount the spring plate a notch counter clockwise and you get 40 min of clockwise rotation so 3 turns of each in opposite directions gives you 2 degree of correction. It's that simple.
Use a grease pencil to mark the location of the torsion bar before you remove it so you don't loose your starting position. If you are unsure about what the angle spec for the spring plates is measure the diameter of the torsion bar with a dial caliper and it will tell you the spring plate settings (look up in Bentley).
For installation, use talcum power on the spring plate busings. A lot of talcum powder you'll find at the drugstore isn't made from talc anymore. Make sure you locate proper talc. You can get new bushings from Bus Boys and I recommend you replace them while you are doing this adjustment. In the worst case, the bushing "flows": http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/ ... 20flow.jpg
BlueBird in the UK sells urethane grommets for Type 2's. I'm not sure who resells them here. If you install them, use the teflon/vaseline grease that Prothane/Bugpack sells so they don't squeak. All urethan bushings increase the harshness of the ride so keep that in mind.
Finally, getting the spring plate cover can be tricky and the technique is the use longer bolts to get the cover on then switch to the stock bolts to secure it.
Some of those suspension bolts can be in really ratty shape (worn threads, rusted threads, no threads) so have a supplier of 10.9 grade metric M12 and M14 bolts lined up if you need to get replacements. I would recommend replacing them anyway because they will be in worse shape 10 years from now. These are the M14 bolts you'll need for installation:
* N 010 121 3 (M14 long)
* N 010 200 2 (M14 short)
